Sri Lanka prepares for party of a lifetime

As another English season draws to a close, the trees turn yellow and the temperature falls, cupboards will be raided for fleeces and pullovers. England's cricketers, however, will be polishing their sunglasses, ironing their linen shirts and stocking up on sun lotion, preparing for a return to serendipity.

Eighteen months after their glorious series-sealing victory against Sri Lanka at the grassy-banked Sinhalese Sports Club, Nasser Hussain's side is returning to Colombo, one Asia's most laidback capital cities, hoping to kick-start their World Cup preparations with a successful ICC Champions Trophy.

Sri Lanka, meanwhile, will hope that they will be followed by their famously loyal supporters, eager to top-up their tans before another long dark winter. The bitter memories of a shock home defeat may still linger, but the locals still reminisce fondly about England's carnival-like tour.

For two months England's Union Jack clad Barmy Army cheered on their team, sung their songs and twisted their hips to the rhythmic drumming of local bands. Sri Lanka's gyrating spectators couldn't hide their delight - Nasser's supporters also loved a cricket party.

In the 1990s English supporters started to flock to the West Indies, especially Kensington Oval, Barbados and St. Johns, Antigua. The stadiums were been filled to the rafters, the supporters happily intoxicated by a heady mixture of cricket, Calypso and rum.

The West Indies was attractive. Cricket was loved; a pastime with a permanent place in their cultural heritage and a glue that bound together different ethnicities. And aside from cricket there was paradise: sunshine, golden beaches and turquoise seas. For those wishing to party, the nightlife was exhilarating.

No other destination could match the Caribbean's intoxicating charm. Until, that is, a long time overdue, those men in grey suits at the home of cricket finally agreed to a full Test series in Sri Lanka. A new paradise was discovered.

Sri Lanka is Asia's Caribbean, a small island of great beauty, populated by a charming people. Elsewhere in the subcontinent travel can be an ordeal - in Sri Lanka it's easy: the laid back pace of life coupled with the generousity and politeness of its inhabitants makes it so.

Like in the Caribbean, cricket is cherished. Nowhere else in the world does a three-day school game attract 5,000 cheering spectators - in Sri Lanka such crowds are seen every year as Royal College take on St Thomas. From gabbling tri-shaw drivers to reclining beach boys, from blue suited businessmen to gossiping housewives, the game is followed with passion.

In fact, it goes deeper than love. Success in cricket feeds the soul of country. The 1996 World Cup victory became an important marker point in the nation's post-independence history - a source of confidence and pride.

So it should come as no surprise that England's supporters quickly warmed to Sri Lanka. Traipsing from the coconut palm-fringed beaches surrounding Galle International Stadium, to the lush hillsides hugging Asgiriya International Stadium, thousands enjoyed the holiday of a lifetime.

Many will consider a return for the ICC Champions Trophy and those that do will discover a new spirit of confidence. A new government came to power in December, initiating a peace process that has gathered momentum by the day. Six months on and a civil war in the north is no longer; guns swapped for telephones, bunkers for the negotiating table. The resultant air of hope is intoxicating.

So although a difficult year for tourism worldwide, Colombo is bracing itself for a party. The two stadiums are being revamped, tour operators are busy plotting excursions, hoteliers are planning banquets and bars are signing up live bands.

But the number of travellers is difficult to predict. Few expect the numbers that poured in for the England series. However, it is hoped the prospect of an exciting tournament, wedded to happy memories, a quickly maturing peace process and value for money, will attract large numbers of supporters.

Indeed, Sri Lanka offers the cricket tourist unbeatable value for money. Some operators are offering 14-day package tours for as little GBP 620, inclusive of first class accommodation and a return flight. Tours to Australia and South Africa later in the winter cost significantly more.

There is another reason for traveling - the cricket could be exceptional. The world's best players will be playing, on pitches tailormade for blistering batting. "Come done Jayasuriya, Tendulkar, Lara, Klusner, Gilchrist and Flintoff...time to entertain."

So if haven't yet planned an Autumnal sojourn, the time has come to scribble out that holiday leave form. The party starts on 12 September, England's first game on 18 September. Don't miss out on the trip of a lifetime