An Englishman in Sri Lanka (part 4)

If you have to lose a Test match by an innings after lunch on the final day, Galle must be one of the best places to do it. The loss and the manner in which it happened are quickly forgotten when you find yourself on one of the many palm-fringed beaches that lie within 15 to 20 minutes of Galle.

The prospect of cricket and beaches lured England's cricket fans in their thousands from England's colder climes. In the weeks leading up to the Test, the local Sri Lankans and the newspapers talked of this English invasion. "Thank God, not football fans", as one newspaper said. Hotels were said to be fully booked, tickets were said to be sold out and the numbers expected ranged from two thousand to nine thousand.

It wasn't quite nine thousand, and there were still hotel rooms and tickets to be had, but it was a fairly impressive travelling army nonetheless. Flags from all over Great Britain could be seen at the ground, from Northern Ireland to a large contingent from Birmingham, who were also hoping for a Birmingham City victory in the Worthington Cup Final.

The ground itself is as impressive as any that I have visited, with the sea surrounding it on two sides and the old Dutch Fort overlooking it on another. The bastions, named "star", "moon" and "sun" offered the non-paying spectator and the BBC commentary team a birds' eye view. Home to Galle Cricket Club, it is small and intimate, with a pavilion and one stand being its only permanent structures. The other stands were temporary affairs made from planks of wood and scaffolding. One in particular proved to be a little too temporary as one section would collapse on a daily basis, just after tea it always seemed.

England never really gained a foothold in the match for various reasons. The loss of Atherton early on the fifth day made the rearguard effort even more of an uphill struggle. The wickets fell at regular intervals and the spectators were kept up to date with each player's short stay and the state of the match by way of a PA system. The announcement that "England still trail Sri Lanka by 64 runs", with emphasis on the "still", became a little irritating after a while.

Music also played with the loss of each wicket and it seemed as if each song was specifically tailored. Following Craig White's dismissal, "Tragedy" by the Bee Gees blared out and Ashley Giles's short stay was greeted by "I want to break free". Disappointingly, England never quite could 'break free' from the Sri Lankan spinners.